Monthly Archives: September 2004

Italian, From The Region Near Insanity

Today, apropos of nothing, NYT food critic Frank Bruni reviewed Petrosino, the casual Italian restaurant on the corner of Norfolk and Houston that’s been open since fall 2002. Despite its promising debut, it has long prided itself on offering higher prices and less good food than casual Italian neighbors like those, say, in the Prisinzano Empire. This summer, apropos of nothing, the owner opened a new casual spinoff next door called Canapa. I dined there a few months back. I would not recommend it to my enemies.

For weeks, I’ve walked by Petrosino and its vast sea of empty seats (Tuesday at 7pm, Friday at 9pm, doesn’t matter), setting mental over/unders as to its closing. I would have wagered on “tomorrow” if I could. Now, thanks to Bruni’s two-star review, a neat sociological experiment begins: how long can a decaying, overpriced restaurant ride out its bizarro moment of two-star fame? To be sporting, over/under: February 9, 2005.
· Italian, From the Region Near Whimsy [NYTimes]